THE FRENCH PARADOX CHAPTER TWELVE

Eating Healthy Starts in the Kitchen (Yours!)

Deprivation is not fun. That's why so few people have rushed to embrace the bland, ultra-low-fat, no-meat, self-denial and high-deprivation diets that claim to guarantee you a few extra years of life. That kind of regimen is a Catch-22: the good news is that you'll live a couple more years; the bad news is that you'll live a couple more years and have to eat like that.

It takes steely discipline to stay on these diets; they are complicated and time-consuming, which works doubly against their chances of being widely adopted.

Fortunately, the cuisines of the world provide a myriad of healthy eating models which are delicious and healthy at the same time they are quick, easy and mostly inexpensive. Italian, Greek, Provencal, Moroccan, Indian, Chinese and other cuisines have been healthy for centuries -- all without gene-splicing or food preparation facilities that more closely resemble oil refineries than kitchens.

At the end of this chapter is a list of ethnic cookbooks that will give you a start into the cultural cuisines. Remember -- the recipes in these and other cookbooks can usually be made healthier, easier and less fattening by keeping a close eye on ingredients and preparation.

Here are some tips you may find helpful. They are excerpted from The French Paradox Cookbook to be published later this year. If you'd like more information about the cookbook, please mail in the postage-paid postcard in the back of this book. If that is missing, write to Renaissance Publishing, 867 W. Napa St., Sonoma, CA 95476 or call, toll-free: (800) 845-4671 or (800) 544-8890.

Tips For Enjoying the World's Cultural Cuisines

(1) AVOID FATS:

High levels of fat, even from olive, rice or canola oils, are not healthy; you should avoid recipes that call for deep-fat frying. In addition, you can usually cut the recommended amounts of fat in a recipe by one-half or even two-thirds without affecting the recipe. The first time you make a recipe, use one-third less and then work down each time you prepare the dish.

(2) OVEN FRY FOODS INSTEAD:

If you need the taste of fried fish or chicken, try this "oven-fried" technique. Add salt and pepper (to taste) to milk (1 percent fat is good, buttermilk is better) and dip the fish or chicken in it. Roll in bread crumbs until coated and then drizzle with a small amount of oil (1 tsp. or less depending on the size). Bake in your oven at about 450 degrees until browned and crisped; turn the pieces periodically so they cook evenly. Don't broil because that will burn the crust before the insides are done.

Avoid the commercial products that are supposed to do these same things since they tend to contain hydrogenated oils and a plethora of test tube chemicals. Use fruit juices instead of milk and add spices to the bread crumbs for different tastes.

(3) LEARN TO LOVE GARLIC

Not only is it healthy in its own right, it is used extensively in most ethnic cuisines. To save time, purchase jars of minced garlic preserved with vegetable oil. This is fine in cooked dishes, but crush your own fresh when making salad dressing or garlic bread.

(4) USE OLIVE OIL INSTEAD OF BUTTER OR MARGARINE:

Use a basting brush to spread a thin layer on bread before toasting and you'll get rich flavor without as many calories as butter or margarine. Use extra virgin olive oil (first cold press) for a nuttier, more intense olive flavor. To save time, and money, combine fresh crushed garlic with olive oil in a small jar to use as a butter or margarine substitute. Refrigerate to keep fresh.

(5) USE CANOLA OR RICE OIL WHEN THE OLIVE TASTE IS NOT DESIRABLE:

These have no taste and are extremely high in monounsaturates.

(6) USE YOUR MICROWAVE:

Microwave ovens are ideal for cooking most vegetables since they steam fast, with little or no water to leach out the vitamins and minerals. When recipes call for sauteing vegetables, parboil them slightly in the microwave first. Then all they need is a quick saute, so you can use less oil without danger of burning. The microwave also makes it possible to use small amounts of butter to flavor relatively large amounts of vegetables, getting that wonderful flavor without overdosing on butterfat.

The Microwave Cookbook by Barbara Kafka (William Morrow, 1987) is a marvelous reference for techniques.

(7) KICK THE SALT:

Highly spiced recipes naturally need less salt. When necessary, use a no-sodium salt substitute like No Salt that works just fine.

(8) USE WHAT'S ON HAND:

Although many recipes call for fresh spices, you can also use dried ones.

(9) EXTRACT ALL THE FLAVOR:

If you've sauted a piece of fish, meat or poultry in a pan, you can make a tasty sauce by removing the meat and adding a half cup of wine to deglaze the hot pan. Reduce the resulting liquid, thicken with arrowroot if necessary, and serve over the meat. This type of sauce can easily substitute for cream-based sauces recommended in some recipes.

(10) SHOP LIKE AN ITALIAN MAMA:

When you shop for food, buy the fresh foods that look best that day and then look for the best recipe. Starting with the recipe first sometimes means settling for mediocre quality.

Shop more often. Huge once-a-week supermarket forays can be an ordeal. Stock up on staples, but buy your fresh food two or three times a week (keeping things simple enough to use the express lane).

Locate a farmers market; even big cities often have them now. Not only do America's farmers deserve your support but the food is usually fresher.

(11) HAVE THE RIGHT INGREDIENTS ON HAND:

It's frustrating not to have the right stuff in the cabinet. Please refer to the pantry panel that accompanies this chapter for more details.

(12) BUY COOKBOOKS:

A few are recommended at the end of this chapter.

(13) AVOID TECHNO-FOODS:

Pre-mixed foods, as well as many items found in the breakfast food and dairy sections, contain hidden surprises. Read the ingredients list. So many foods advertised as "healthy" contain hydrogenated fats and a list of chemicals that defy pronunciation by anyone without a chemical engineering degree. If the product does not list the exact nutritional data (grams of fat, sugar etc.) do not buy the product. This deceptive practice should make you angry enough to swear off products that don't give you enough information to make an informed decision.

If you must indulge, do it with healthy food. The ersatz "shakes" you get at fast food outlets are techno-concoctions with lots of calories. Enjoy those sinful calories by making your own shake from real ice cream and real milk. The same goes for most other laboratory foods.

(14) SERVE BIG PLATES OF FOOD:

Go heavy on vegetables and carbohydrates. Meats seem to get the most care and attention in the typical meal. If you lavish as much attention on the vegetables and carbohydrates, they begin to outshine the animal proteins which means you can serve less meat. This is not only healthier, but kinder on your food budget.

Vary the carbohydrates by exploring rice pilafs, couscous, pasta as a side dish, bulgar dishes like tabbouleh, dumplings or polenta.

(15) GO FOR THE FLAVOR:

While cheeses like Gorgonzola and Parmesan are high in fat, a little imparts a lot of flavor and pleasure. Buy it fresh, not pre-sliced or pre-grated which will start to lose flavor intensity the moment the solid block is broken down.

Experiment with balsamic and flavored vinegars. They seem expensive, but it only takes a little bit; they go a long way. A teaspoon of extra virgin olive oil with balsamic vinegar, fresh garlic and a few spices can be tastier on salads than two or three tablespoons of commercial salad dressing with five times the calorie count.

16) SERVE FRUIT AND CHEESE FOR DESSERT:

Enjoy lots of fresh fruit and serve a highly flavored cheese as an accent only.

(17) LOOK FOR SUBSTITUTIONS:

You can find many tasty and healthy alternatives to those "killer" foods.

-- Use olive oil on bread instead of butter; works for most vegetables too.

-- You can substitute two egg whites for one whole egg in many recipes.

-- Many recipes will accept evaporated skim milk instead of cream.

-- Substitute beans or lentils for meat in things like chili, tacos, etc.

-- Substitute chicken for beef.

Suggested Cookbooks

-- Clay Cookery, Publications International Ltd, 1990

-- The Complete Book of Greek, Cooking Recipe Club of St. Paul's Greek Orthodox Cathedral, Harper Perennial, 1990

-- Cuisine Rapide, Pierre Franey & Bryan Miller, Times Books, 1989

-- Southern Italian Cooking, Jo Bettoja & Jane Ganney, Bantam Books, 1991

-- French Country Cooking, James Villas, Bantam Books, 1992

-- Verdura, Viana La Place, William Morrow & Co. Inc., 1991

-- Mediterranean Light, Martha Rose Shulman, Bantam Books, 1989

-- Cooking Light 1991, Oxmoor House, 1990

-- Cooking Light 1992; Oxmoor House, 1991

-- Microwave Gourmet, Barbara Kafka, William Morrow & Co. Inc., 1987

-- Cucina Rustica, Viana La Place & Evan Kleiman, William Morrow & Co. Inc., 1990

-- The New Basics Cookbook, Julie Rosso & Sheila Lukins, Workman Publishing, 1989

-- California Fresh Cookbook, The Junior League of Oakland East Bay, 1985